We sterilized our Quarantine tanks two week before arrival and got the
filtration going with heat and bio boost.
We added 2.5 kg of salt/1000 liters, another 2.5 kg to be added a day
after introduction of the fish.
On arrival, we opened the boxes in very dim light because the fish was in
darkness for 42 hours;
Thereafter we floated the bags for 10 minutes to enable the bags to
adjust to the temperature and soft light. We did not float them for a longer
period, because we ensured that the temperature of my quarantine water was
already at 12 degrees Celsius on arrival, and we knew that the fish will
arrive at that temperature. We also believe that after what they went
through, we don't want to prolong getting them into clean ammonia free salty
water.
We also lowered the PH beforehand in accordance with PH in which the fish
normally arrives from Japan.
We increased the oxygen in the receiving tanks and started to release the
fish one by one, properly inspecting each one for obvious signs of a
disease, parasites or external injury. We were looking for fish that are
lying on their sides due to the long journey or for any signs of struggling
to release them first , but there were none despite the long trip.
We still kept the light intensity very low to minimize stress.
Each breeder had it's own separate facility.
Once all the koi was swimming normally, we added Elbagin(Japanese
Antibiotic) to the water.
Obviously, we had to close all lids to prevent them from jumping, because
new arrival will jump.
After the Koi has rested for a few days without any noise or disturbance,
we gradually increased the water temperature and done random scrapings for
parasites but found none after clinical examination and under the
microscope. If we found any parasites, we would have treated accordingly.
Some people treat irrespective of the presence of parasites. The question
is, why add more stress to the fish?
We added bio-boost to our filters to ensure top quality water free from any
Ammonia and Nitrites and added Koizyme, although we believe that it is not
necessary because if you maintain absolute clean water as we do, it is not
necessary. After all, it is a small price to pay to be sure.
Hereafter, we increased the temperature to various levels but below 28
degrees, to trigger any possible KHV if it is present, but not to kill it if
present, despite the fact that the fish were already tested negative on two occasions.
The increased heat also forces any bacterial problems or
parasites to show itself under controlled conditions.
We monitored the fish carefully, keeping the water quality in top condition
at zero ammonia and nitrites with two water changes per day and maintenance
of the salt levels at 5kg/1000 liters and the PH.
After one month and only when we are absolutely sure that there
are no problems, the fish will be placed for sale.